Teaching so far.

Teaching is a different experience.  Pacing is a challenge.  You want to keep the fast learners busy but you don't want to lose the slower learners in the dust.  I find I end up teaching in mini lessons to smaller groups who tend to learn at the same rate.  One group might be at stage a, another at stage b and the fastest at stage c.  I am certainly on my feet the entire time.

Because of the scheduling of the class, with two classes weekly, I get a fair bit of grumbling about the homework assigned and a high degree of unpreparedness for class.  I am not really certain how to tackle it, the concept is so foreign to me.  When someone said I needed to do this for this class, I did it.  Also, the work has been light so far.  No complaining!

I also forgot to turn an iron off tonight.  I called security and they promised to send someone to unplug it. 

Flutter Shirt WIP

The A-Line skirt is from my skirt block, the cap sleeve tshirt from my tshirt block (a mod from Burda 3197). The top is super long and needs to be trimmed, thus it is tucked in.  The neckline needs some foldable elastic. The sleeves need some finishing but I don't know what yet.  I'd do a rolled hem but my serger needs a visit to the shop.  This material has not been fun to work with.  I'll talk about how I tamed it when I post finished pics.

The skirt is complete and just waiting for the weather to climb about 10 for wearing.

Next up was a quick and dirty self drafted pressing tool holder.  Maybe this will keep them off the floor.

Finally, my excellent team on Mother's Day.

 

Nothing to See Here.

Pattern Making class has ended with us have our dress blocks to update.  I have stuffed my pinned muslin somewhere and will get to it.  Eventually.  I love the class and the ladies but I need a break. 

I made a kayak seat cover for the brother as his old one had rotted in the sun.

I made an unlined aline skirt for me from my skirt block.

I redid a skirt I made for Mom years ago, adding some panels and giving it some more length.

I took in a gap-y waist band on a pair of pants.

Class has started and we are knee deep in pattern alterations.   

I have no pictures but I am sewing.

Rowr.

Simplicity 2614.  I have made this shirt before.  This would be my fourth effort.  This time I adjusted for a full bust and raised the armholes.  I did not cut the lower half on the bias as I didn't have enough fabric.  As a result, there is not quite as nice a draped fit at the back than what there should have been.  I wish I had enough fabric for the pussy bow but alas, not to be.

The neckline has an organza facing to give it some strength and the cuffs also have organza for interfacing.  The inside is french seamed except the armholes.  The material has frayed too much and I will have to serge them.  The cuffs are a bit snug and I am going to have to open them up..

 I plan to wear this over a cami.  I see this as a show my work shirt for class.The back isn't crooked or uneven, it is just the way it is hanging right now.

Love the show, meh the skirt.

While I was working on lesson plans for class, I watched the first episode of the Great British Sewing Bee.  Love.  I loved that the oldest seamstress in the group is clearly the most proficient (Team Ann!)  Of the younger seamstresses, only one seemed competent (Lauren). I notice a lack of basic skills from most of the others.  Bad zip insertion.  Weird sleeve insertion technique.  Shoddy hems. Weak fitting skills.  Yet, I loved the camaraderie between the contestants, the sewing tidbits explained by the hosts, and the overall feeling of the show.  I can't wait to sit down for episode 2.

My designed by me skirt is together. The bottom looks weird from the side, like I didn't soften it or check it's curve.  The little pleat detail on the dupioni isn't thrilling me, I wish I had not included it.  I may sew it down.  Also, the wrap feature at the waist isn't showing up as clearly as I had hoped. I should probably have piped it to define it better.  Once I solve these problems I will draft a facing and lining, but for now it is just sitting there.

I have pants to hem and a house to dust.  Both dull tasks.  I wonder which will win?

Basic Aline

This is a basic denim a-line skirt made from my skirt block.  Nothing fancy, sits below the waist, an easy quick basic.  While sewing and during wear it kept growing and growing and growing.  I used this denim for my Jalie jeans and they had the same problem too.  The rest of that denim is going in the scrap pile. The skirt is going in the washer and dryer.

I am a bit burnt out.  My level of production has shown that to be true much earlier than I have wanted to admit it. 

I have five three hour orientation courses to take at the college (Algonquin).  My class starts in May and runs two night a week until the end of June.  I'll be teaching how to make a lined skirt following couture techniques.  We'll practice techniques on a half scale and on samples and then transfer that knowledge to the full sized garment.  I have completed the schedule, now I need to get working on some lesson plans.

I also helped out at The National Woman's show and assisted with putting on the Sukhoo Sukhoo fashion show.  Now that was an eye opening experience.  Behind the scenes is a mess of models whipping off clothes, putting on more, needing to be zipped and buttoned.  All the girls had to squat to enable me to reach their zips!  The clothes looked so beautiful on real live people.  They just came to life.  I also helped set up the Frank's booth and manned it..  At the end of the weekend my feet were toast.  Two days later and I now feel recovered.  I am out of practise wearing dressier shoes.

Pat laid tile in the laudry room so my painting skills were called into play to freshen the rest of the room up.  It is a hard working room and it needed it.

I am helping out at the National Woman's Show this weekend.  I've made some promo material for Sukhoo Sukhoo and done a smidge of speech writing.  The booth is set up and I get to see the ladies walk the runway.  I am looking forward to doing something different.

I am also going to be teaching the spring session of Clothing Construction 1 at the college.  This starts in May and I am going to spend the rest of month of April prepping.  I am excited.  If things go well I hope to continue in the Fall.

I have sewn a simple aline denim skirt using my block that I will have to show you next.

Skirt Design in Muslin

You might remember that we had made our straight skirt blocks a few weeks ago.  We've then created a new pattern based on a design idea that we sketched.  This was my idea - an a-line skirt with some interesting curves and a few tucks.  Remember, I want something I will wear.  This isn't the runway here.

And this is the muslin of my skirt.  It looks like I had imagined (note the hem is marked but not put up).  It fits bang on the waist and bang on the hips.  In fact there is little that needs to be done except soften the curve where the sides of the waist meet.  I forgot to do that on my pattern when I was balancing it.

From my original idea I had to lose the idea of no side seams.  Curves need seams or darts...doh!  Right now I have the zipper in center back, but may change it to the side

This skirt is a bit of a revelation to me.  It FITS.  I am sold on using a personalized block for my sewing!

WIP New Look 6872 Skirt

I have started New Look 6872.  It says easy right on the packet. Good, I just want a simple sew.  It is a rectangle skirt with a waist band and side zip.   Simple.  Or it should have been. I'd chosen a cotton voile border print.  I thought I could get away with just lining it.  Wrong.  It needed to be interfaced as well.  I pissed around with my standard order of construction and put in my zipper late.  Crappy job.  The waistband is huge. It sits at my natural waist and goes up two inches.  On my body that almost hits my boobs.  Along with needing extra interfacing, it needs to be shorter.

I have ripped the whole skirt apart, recut it so that it will be shorter and less full, and interfaced it.  I put in a more narrow waistband, an invisible zip, and followed my usual order of construction. Stupid simple patterns. Here is where it stands right now. I don't LOVE it, but I sure as hell like it better than I did before.

Onto other things: the leather thimble works great but quilting is slow. Also,my jacket muslin is ready for a fitting. I had started a little gift for someone that helped me out recently.  The silk got a snag and I canned it. Efff.  They'll still get their gift, but the mood has passed for now.   I finally finished a shirt that has been awaiting a hem since Christmas.  Actually, it had been a dress, but I found it too dumpy, so a judo-chop-chop.  Now it is a shirt.

We are busy in class.  We are building our block for our dress, and turning our skirt designs into patterns.  We should be able to muslin out the design after next week's class.

Leather thimble

Quilting hurts.  I hate using a metal thimble but I hate stabbing that little needle into the groove of my fingertip even more.  I did a bit of reading and discovered some quilters use leather thimbles.  They provide more "feeling" than a metal thimble but still offer protection from the jabs.  Why buy one when I could make my own?

I used this guide in Threads and picked up an old lady leather purse at the Sally Anne for six bucks. i specifically looked for a purse that noone in their right mind would want.  I didn't want to ruin a perfectly servicable purse.   I cut the purse apart, salvaging the leather pieces on the body.  I also cut off the hardware for stash.  You never know when you might need some heavy duty purse hardware.

I adjusted the pattern piece for my hand, sewed up the body of the thimble on machine and hand stitched the top finger pad to the body using a glovers needle.  And voila!  Leather thimble.  Does it work?  Stay tuned...

Does this thimble make my finger look fat?

Irons in the Fire. HOT

I also shook off my sewing humdrums and am now muslining McCalls 5759 (Out of Print).  This will be the jacket with the pleather sleeves.

The muslin has already shown me that the curves on this jacket require basting before sewing.  I'd like to have the jacket muslin ready for Monday so that I can convince the sewing ladies to help me fit it. I don't expect much will be required, maybe a bit at the back for shaping. I just need to insert the sleeves.

On the mini quilt front, I have the top completed.  I went to the local quilting store, Quilty Pleasures, and got good help with selecting my batting and backing.  I left with tips and a hoop and needles and thread.  I have it laid out and pinned and half basted.  Wow, that is tedious. 


It's nice to have a few irons in the fire again.

Speaking of irons, Dad and I took apart the Bab's old love seat,  We were just going to fix the strapping on the bottom seat but I am of the opinion that everything, upholstery fabric included, needs to be redone.  It is at his house and we now have a project.  Right now it seems overwhelming (horsehair, springs, strapping, upholstery, burlap, muslin) but it will come together.  You might see a few pics of that as we progress.

I took some time this week and cleaned my sewing machines and serger.  Lint was carefully removed (no blowing!) and parts were oiled.  I feel all virtuous.

 My mini quilt top is mostly constructucted.  I plan to do the actual quilting by hand.

My cousin Dan made me a new logo right after Christmas.  It is the header of this webpage.  I was so excited about the logo that I wanted to update my labels.  I scoured Etsy and ended up picking the seller customcouturelabelco.  I wanted woven this time, as opposed to printed.  I will use up my remaining printed on my crafty type projects.  Look how sweet the new label looks.

Sew-jo

My sew-jo is missing.  I don't feel like garment sewing.  I do want to sew though, so have picked up some fat quarters in combos of red and white, and am piecing together some 4x4 squares in sets of 9.

My bedroom at the cottage is white with red accents.  I still have nothing decorative on the wall and had been keeping my eyes open for some original cheap art.  I am thinking I will make these squares into some type of quilted wall hanging or maybe frame a few panels in shabby chic white frames.  This will let me putter around with quilting without committing to a great big quilt and also create something with purpose for the cottage.

We went off to Montreal on Friday.  Pat took in the motorcycle show and I went to the fabric district.  I purchased a faux leather and fur piece from C&M Textiles.  The faux leather piece I see using for sleeves in a jacket or blazer. I bought a meter for $23.

The lace piece is from  Tissue St. Hubert.   They had beautiful beaded fabrics.  How I wish my life called for more beads and sequins.  The owner was very nice and sold me 2.5m of this lace for $35.  The lace piece will be a short summer dress, likely layered over a chocolate brown..

We met back up for a early supper at Santa Barbara restaurant.  We opened the place.  I had a corn chowder for starters.  It was fresh and hot and had cilantro.  Love.  Then a main of sweet potato perogies and beets.  I've never been a beet eater before and I cleaned them right up.  I also had a glass of merlot so that got me out of having to drive home!

Elna Lotus SP

Last weekend I drove to Kingston to collect this little pretty - an Elna Lotus SP. I won her at an estate auction for $100.  I got her home, cleaned her up inside and out, plugged her in and.....nothing.  Well, not nothing.  Her light turned on dimly and I could hear the motor running but nothing moved. Further investigation led me to realize that this machine, which was sold in London England in 1972, had never been converted to North American power.  Boo.  After checking online and getting advice, I purchased a step up/step down transformer ($30) for it to plug into, and voila, the machine works.  I haven't really spent much time with it yet and I am a bit bummed over the workaround as I feel it takes away from the portability.  Will I keep it?  We'll see.

A beautiful design, her case is built in.

I have been sick all week - lying in bed, lying around, sick.  I didn't even wander over to my sewing table once.  I did have an appointment and I wore my camel hair coat for the first time.  It is lovely and warm.  I feel like the sleeves are a touch short, and I want more fur (faux) on the coat, so I have decided to add removable fur cuffs.  That will be this week's project.  Class resumes this week as well, after a two week hiatus as Frank was busy with Fashion Week.

All her accessories except the oil tube.

Butterick 5333 top complete.

In person I like this top from Butterick 5333.  In pictures, bleah.  Ignore the fit on mini me, it is only accurate from the back.  My boobs fill out the top, mini me's don't.  I really need to start taking pics with these things on.  In real life it does not seem fitted enough under the bust, but the back seems ok.   I was skimpy on the back zip, it should have been longer.

This is a grey dupioni, lined in bemberg and finished with self bias around the neck and arms.

My review on PatternReview.

Teacher's Gifts

To help stem off some sewing ennui I made some zipped bags for end of year gifts for the teachers.  These could work as pencil cases or little makeup bags.  I used the pattern I found here but winged it instruction wise as I struggled with her zipper instructions.  I used the method described in my Apples to Oranges sewing kit pattern to attach the zip to the fabric and lining simultaneously.  These are all made with scraps and 33 cent zippers.  Those are my kind of gifts.

Iron Reviews

I have a good iron.  The Rowenta Promaster.  Good steam, no drips.  I don't even mind the automatic shut off.  However, it doesn't seem to fuse my interfacing worth a shit and I am not convinced I am getting my fabrics really crisp.

So I got it into my head I needed a steam iron.  I wanted a professional steam iron set up but simply cannot hang that ugly thing up in my dining room.  So, enter in the Rowenta Pressure Iron and Steamer.   It steams like Old Faithful.  Win.  It leaks like a sieve. Lose. There is no way I could use this iron on anything other than cotton.

After it warms up you have to blow the condensation out of the iron hose.  Ok.  Not a big deal.  However, if you are doing stop/starting ironing, like you do when you are sewing, there is always time for more condensation to collect, thus the need to repeatedly blow out.  It doesn't matter if the steamer is full or empty.  I took the first one back, thinking it might have been sitting on the shelf too long.  Nope, the second one has the same problems.  I love the steam but I cannot live with this iron.  Back it went.  For over $180 bucks this iron should have rocked my world.

I noticed Costco had some pressure/steam irons online.  I ordered the DeLongi Professional Ironing System ($149) (aka Delongi Pro300).  The iron is solid and heavy.  I like that.  This is a good iron.  It's weight really helps press the fabric. The steam vents are only are at the tip of the iron.  I didn't like that.  It doesn't matter though since this is a crappy steam iron.  The DeLongi has the same problem as the Rowenta Pressure Iron and Steamer:  stop ironing and there is condensation build up and the iron then just blows and blows water until it's tube is clear.  It is going back once I can get Pat to set foot into Costco again.

EDITED: I kept the DeLongi.  Once I turned the steam and the iron heat to medium AND used the hose holder that lifts the house up, spitting was reduced. I get a bit when I first turn it on, or fill it, but after that it is fairly trustworthy.

This Butterick 5333 top muslin took me forever.  In the end I changed it to a princess seam for the top piece and pinched out the gapage at the side arm using the seam.  Now i just need to put it in fabric. I also need to think about how to finish the insides.  The pattern has you self fabric line the top and midriff piece.  I don't want to waste silk on the inside.  This means I'll either have to make facings and line it or use a different material on the inside and bind the neckline and arms.


Speaking of fabric, there is a new store in Ottawa called Fabrications.  It's a place to go to sew (lots of new Bernina's, nice work space) and buy fabric (cottons, organic and japanese) and some indy patterns (sewaholic, colette). I bought a meter of cotton and promptly used some of it to make a Kobo ereader cover. Yay for new sewing stores!!!

Nothing concrete but busy.

I have had Butterick 5333 in the stash for about a year.  I do like a lifestyle collection.  I like the jacket, the top and the dress especially.  I plan on making the top in a grey dupioni that I picked up on sale at Darrel Thomas Textiles.  The fabric was originally going to be for making ties but that ship has sailed.  It is all selfish sewing from now.

I decided to muslin the top.  I knew I was going to need more depth in the bust section and more width in the hips section.  The first muslin I added an inch to the body and spread the hip pieces.  I ended up hating the underbust dart.  I pivoted the dart to the side and shortened the shoulder straps. I am on the right track but am not there yet. Too much fabric in the upper arm region.  Frank suggested moving the dart to the arm or moving to a princess seam.  So,  I've transferred the dart again and will make it up soon and see where I go next.   I am not in any real rush to make this so I am just enjoying the learning process.

Class continues.  We've moved well into patternmaking.  We take basic blocks and learn to change them to incorporate our design.  The idea behind it all is that you are not always reinventing the wheel.  You take something that you know fits, and then you change the style.  The fit behind it?  Still the same.  We are doing our full size skirt blocks now.  For my design idea I want to change it to an a-line with interesting seams.

Second Shirt McCall's 2447

This is the second shirt for Pat using McCall's 2447.  This time I used a beautiful dark grey cotton with a slight sheen.  I washed it beforehand, which may have been a mistake, because try as I might I could not get the hint of wrinkle out of it.  It is still beautiful.  Maybe a trip to the dry cleaners?

I altered the neckline, the collar band and collar for a bigger neck.  I added another inch to the body of the shirt and to the sleeves.  I did not bother to do any fell seaming.  I just serged the seams on the arms and the body and stitched them down. I had to do the collar twice as I did not bother to check my altered pattern with the stand and I made it too short.  I left off the pocket for a smoother look. 


I am very pleased with this shirt.  I think it looks sharp.  I know I thumb my nose at my Pfaff Ambition 1.5, saying my little Bernina 801 can do anything, but the Pfaff does do a more consistent buttonhole.  I sewed the shirt on the Bernina but switched to the Pfaff for the buttonholes to save myself some aggravation.

This marks the end of man sewing.  Now what?

Apples to Oranges

I have the cotton shirting washed and ready for my next shirt attempt for Pat.  I am holding off on cutting until I talk to Frank about the best way to increase the length of the collar band.

In the meantime I have this urge to do crafty stuff.  I picked up a very cute sewing kit pattern by Straight Stitch Society.  I know, I just made a sewing kit.  I know.  But once you start playing with quilting cottons it is hard to resist.  The pattern is called Apples to Oranges.

This is a fast sew.  I used fusible batting instead of regular batting because I had it on hand.  Otherwise I followed the instructions.  I made the apple kit without the needle pad.  They also have a pattern for an orange which is sweet.  I am filled with the urge to make these for end of the year gifts for the teachers.  I am sure that after I make one more that urge will be in the toilet.  When I do make it again I will add batting on the lining of the zip side of the apple, to give it a bit more structure.  It is a bit wimpy compared to the pin cushion side.

Knitting Needle Roll

Another craft project, this time at the request of a knitter.  A knitting needle roll.  I used some home dec material I purchased a few years ago before I realized that home dec sewing  sucks and my house will never be pretty and so it has sat around languishing.  I followed the tutorial I found here.  This was quick and dirty.  It could have gone even faster if I had followed the tutorial instructions and basted the outline of the pockets together first.  I was lazy and sure enough, things slipped and I had to rip.  Three times.  Lesson relearned.

 There you go Shel.  Your 2013 sewing chit is now cashed in.  It's in the mail.

McCall's 2447 Shirt

It looks better than I expected it would given I hate the cheapness of the material.  I could have made Pat a size larger in this pattern.  As it stands I find the neck a smidge tight on him if he wanted to wear it buttoned up with a tie. The question for the next shirt becomes: do I modify the pattern for a bigger neckline, do I buy the pattern in an xl and use that, or do I try again with a different shirt pattern?  When he saw the shirt made up he commented that he already had a shirt in this pattern.  Yeah, I'll be rushing to make that next shirt, ingrate.

I tried a new technique for putting on the collar/stand.  Usually I would construct the whole thing and then attach it to the garment neckline.  This time I attached the inside band to the garment, attached the collar to the inside band, and then attached the outside back.  Worked pretty slick.  I followed this tutorial.  For the inside seams I made fake fell seams by sewing then serging the sides and the folding over and sewing again from the original seam.  I am most proud of my narrow hem.  It is so small and tidy.  Shame it will be tucked in, away from sight.

Sewing Organizer

As a little break from the shirt (just hem left!), I whipped up this little project in a few hours.  I saw the idea in Sew Fresh magazine (2012).  I don't usually buy quilting magazines, but since I did I thought I should at least try to use it.  The magazine is horribly overpriced.

This sewing organizer can be made using scraps.  There is no piece bigger that 14x10.

I often take a couple of pieces of hand sewing with me when I am going to an appointment and just throw my scissors and stuff in my bag.  Thus will let me go a bit better prepared and make it easier to find my supplies. Plus, cute!

Shirt WIP

I'm dawdling with this shirt.  I simply want this project over. While waiting for Pat's CT scans yesterday I handstiched the button front and basted the collar. At home I attached front shirts to back shirt and topstitched.  Sleeve plackets were constructed and sleeves inserted.  Collar and cuffs next, then hem and buttons/holes.  Stupid shirt.

I did hit the fabric sale and found a nice cotton shirting - 50% off - but it still ran me $54.    You know what?  He won't appreciate the quality of a made by me shirt anymore than he would a dress shirt from a store.  Clothes just aren't his thing.  Future shirts, once this next one is made, will be store bought unless the shirting price is low and the quality is high.

I also bought a much cheaper striped shirting for me with a bit of stretch and a gorgeous wool that I had seen before and coveted.  I see it becoming a jacket.

Pictures are from Maggie's camera...she must have added a "frame" setting.

Sometimes cheap shows.

I muslined the shirt.  I had cut the large, with no mods except to arm length.  It is a bit tight across the male boobage area.  I've added an extra 1/2" at the sides and some extra to the underarm and corresponding sleeves.  I have also added 5/8" to the sleeve length (I had already added an inch).

After several weeks off from sewing, my muslin was a mess.  I had a bitch of a time practicing felled seams on the arms.  I think I have found a technique that will work. It was a good warm up and I was raring to go on the real thing but didn't have any material with sufficient yardage so I went to Fabricland for some shirting material.  They had nothing I really liked but I did come home with a white/grey striped poly/cotton mix.  It was on sale for $3/m.  I liked it even less after I washed it and it seemed a bit pill-y and thin.  I have plowed ahead though and will consider this a wearable muslin.  I plan on hitting a 50% fabric sale at Darrel Thomas when the New Year commences and I will pick up a nice all cotton shirting then.

Update: I hate this cheap fabric more and more.  I should have bought quality from the get go.  I have front and back constructed, working on collar.

Dress shirt

I am itching to sew but didn't want to mess up my living room before Christmas day. Yay for Christmas being done...

I don't feel like sewing something for myself what with the holiday spread so I have decided to tackle a shirt for Pat.  I have done a tailored shirt for myself but never for him, so the time is nigh.  I am going to used McCalls 2447 as it is in the stash.  I have no fashion fabric yet but will muslin it first.  I have traced out the pattern, added a bit of sleeve length, and have it cut and marked.  I want to fell seam the arms and side seams.  The muslin will be a chance to practise.  I want to get this pattern right so I can make it a TNT for him.  I was a bit surpised about how much fabric a man's shirt sucks up.  Those bloody arms are such fabric hogs.

Tomorrow my machines come out.

Craft: Wool Flower Broaches

I had some sparkly boiled wool scraps and thought about turning them into flower pins.  I read through a bunch of tutorials.  I started by cutting out about 8 big petals and 6 small petals.  Then I strung the petals together on a long string, alternating sizes.  I connected first to last and knotted, then attach a round piece of fabric at the back to hold it all together.  I blanket stitched around the backing, attaching it to the centers of the petals as I went.  Then I sewed on a broach backing and added a few beads to the center of the flower.

I made three.  From small to large.  If I were to make more, I would add some type of stabilizer to the round piece of fabric on which the broach backing is attached. Maybe cut two backs, encase a piece of thin cardboard within, then attach....

One I clipped to my black wool hat, the others are going for teachers' gifts.