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Saturday, July 27, 2013

Simplicity Blouse 2154 and the FBA

Bust darts are in the right place on me!
I was taught to select pattern size based on which finished measurement equaled your full bust size plus desired ease.  I recently took a Craftsy course called Adjust the Bust.  This course has you pick your pattern size based on your high bust measurement plus an inch per each cup size the pattern is based on (big four's based on B cup, so two inches).  Then you do the required small or full bust adjustment (high bust minus full bust minus pattern cup allowance) if required.  If positive, do a full bust adjustment, if negative, do a small bust adjustment.

I have always been curious about this method so decided to use it for adjusting the blouse in Simplicity 2154. I first had to lower my bust point and then did a 1" FBA.  I also adjusted the shoulder as it was too long, and curved center back a bit for a better fit .

From a construction POV, I used a light see through salmon pink cotton voile with flowers.  I  backed it with a solid pink voile, basted them together and worked with the pieces as one.  I thought the neck facing on the pattern was too small given they want you to baste it to the inside.  I had to understitch it to get it to fold and then tacked it to various seam allowances.  I tried to leave the bow uninterfaced but it needed the volume, so I went back and added it.  I left off the side zip as I can squeeze in to it as it stands.

As for the Craftsy course, I liked it.  The instruction was good, pleasant but not too chatty.  I am pleased with the FBA technique that was taught and will certainly use it again.

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