Friday, January 17, 2014
It's been quick and easy knit town around here and it is time to return to my first love. Donuts. I mean, wovens. I picked up a water resistant red poplin from fabric.com. Marc Jacobs no less. I made the Minoru coat from Sewaholic. I am a sucker for a dramatic collar. I lined it with a grey kashi from stash that I originally got from a discount bin. It has some some fading on the pieces I used for the arms. No one will know but me.
First thing I noticed when checking the patterns finished measurements is that the front to waist length is short - not enough length to deal with my boobs. I added two extra inches via a side dart to accommodate the girls. I see by checking the web that others have managed to achieve similar results through a slash and spread FBA.
For lining, I just used the primary pieces and cut them a bit longer then finished hem length. I had to shorten the sleeves by two inches, tighten the wrist elastics, and raise the waist elastic by two inches to sit in the right spot for me. I also didn't just tuck the lining behind the hem and sew as instructed. I sewed the 2" hem down then bagged the lining.
I departed from my usual steps of making a muslin and marking seam allowances. I cut fabric carefully, snipped notches and only marked key points like the waist casing and pockets. I am pleased with the result. I can't wait for spring. Which, as you can see below, will be a long time coming.
Edited for Wearability: This jacket is wearable but the lack of pockets is VERY limiting. If making, draft yourself some pockets.